Caring for Orchids—What Do I Do With My Gift Orchid?

 

By Jon VanZile

So you've got an orchid as a gift ... congratulations! These beautiful flowers are rapidly becoming the most popular potted houseplant, behind only poinsettias at Christmas.

For many people, getting a gift orchid raises a question: What should I do with it to keep it? For many people, their first gift orchid is the beginning of a long-term love affair with these exotic flowers. But it can seem like a long way from that lovely gift orchid to a thriving collection of flowering plants. This article is designed to help you take those first steps.

Identify Your Orchid

There are about 30,000 species of orchids in the wild, and more than 100,000 registered hybrids. Yet when it comes to gift orchids, the overwhelming majority are one of two varieties:

• Phalaenopsis, also called moth orchids. These plants have round flowers with a pronounced lip that grow on a single tall stalk arising from a whorl of fleshy, oval leaves. Flowers are usually white, purple or pink, or some combination thereof.
• Dendrobium. Dendrobiums are sometimes called cane orchids. They have smaller flowers that grow in rows on stalks that arise from thick canes, oftentimes with several flower clusters per plant. Flowers are typically white or purple. Dendrobium leaves are narrow and emerge from the sides of the cane.

Knowing the name of your orchid will help you later, after the bloom.

First Things First

When you first get your orchid, it will likely be in bloom. Obviously, you want to prolong the bloom as long as possible, so whatever the tag says, here are a few tips that can help.

First, most gift orchids are potted in the wrong conditions for long-term growth. They are potted in plastic and packed with moss around the roots. In fact, orchids typically grow on trees and their roots are water-gathering organs that needs loads of fresh air flow to be healthy. Orchids with wet roots are susceptible to root rot and other problems. But you never want to repot a blooming orchid, especially one that arrived in such a beautiful container. It's too stressful on the plant and it will drop its blooms.

Instead of repotting, it's better to hold off on the water. Don't worry! Most people who are new to orchids think the plants needs loads of water to grow well, but it's just not true. Unless your orchids are growing in the open air, suspended in baskets where they can completely dry out within an hour of being watered, your orchid actually needs very little water. So here's a great piece of advice: every time you think you want to water, wait three days. Or a week. Your plant won't suffer.

Next, don't place your orchid where it will experience cold drafts or exposure to direct sunlight or heating vents. Very dry air, direct heat, and chills are the enemies of your flowers. Your bloom will last longer if you can provide a mild, warm and somewhat humid environment.

Provided your orchid is happy, expect the bloom to last at least a few weeks, sometimes more.

After the Bloom

When the bloom is over, it's time to shift your thinking from a "gift plant" to one you want to keep around for a while. This means snipping off the old flower spike near the base (some experts keep these spikes on, hoping it'll rebloom from the same spike, which does sometimes happen). It also means, depending on the season, repotting your orchid into a more friendly container with the right growing medium.

 

Fertilizing Orchids — How to Feed Your Orchid Collection

 

By Jon VanZile

Photo © Kerry Michaels

The difference between a merely good orchid and a spectacular specimen plant is usually fertilizer.

Like any other plant, orchids need fertilizer to thrive. It's true that they need less than most other plants—and too much fertilizer can quickly burn an orchid’s sensitive roots—but there is no doubt that well-fed orchids are healthier, hold their leaves longer and bear more flowers.

Here are the basics when it comes to fertilizing your orchid collection.

• Use a high-quality fertilizer. There are lots of opinions on which fertilizer is the best, and a whole industry has sprung up to sell specialized orchid foods. You can quickly get lost in the advanced chemistry of various fertilizer claims. But here's the skinny: one nitrogen molecule is very much like another nitrogen molecule. In fact, the quality of your water matters more than your brand of fertilizer. So when it comes to fertilizer, buy a high-quality, balanced fertilizer that contains the three major elements (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium), plus all the minor nutrients (sulfur, calcium, magnesium, iron, manganese, boron, copper, zinc, molybdenum, and chlorine). I also recommend a low-urea or urea-free fertilizer because urea is not a truly available source of nitrogen for epiphytic orchids.
• Weekly, weakly. This is an old rule of thumb among orchid growers: "Water weekly, weakly." You can judge the strength of a commercial fertilizer by the concentration of the major nutrients. (Click on Fertilizer Basics for a more complete description.) In general, however, you'll probably be safe using a standard 20-20-20 fertilizer at quarter strength, and a 10-10-10 fertilizer at half strength. Follow the label directions on specialty orchid fertilizers.
• Don't Overfeed! Overfeeding will not benefit your plants. Synthetic fertilizers contain mineral salts, such as potassium, calcium and others. Over time, these salts build up in your pot and potting medium and can seriously harm the plant. Additionally, overfed orchids often grow too quickly, making them weak and susceptible to disease. Finally, many kinds of orchids actually bloom worse if they're overfed. Find the fine line and stick with it.
• Feed during the growing season. Many orchids—dendrobiums, for example—go into dormancy over the winter months. Others, such as cattleya, slow way down in their growth. There is little purpose in feeding a dormant plant. Start fertilizing again once the plant shows signs of fresh growth in the spring.
• To bloom-boost or not? It's increasingly easy to find specialized bloom-boosters that offer slightly different nutrient balances or micronutrients designed to enhance orchid flowering. These are tempting, but unless you're a professional grower, there's little benefit to these products. First, most home orchid collections carry multiple genera that flower at different times of the year. Second, different genera have different flowering requirements. When you get down to it, a high-quality, well-balanced fertilizer is just as effective at producing blooms as a booster, and it will benefit all your plants, not just the bloomers.

To return to the main page, click on All About Orchids

 

How To Make Sense of a Fertilizer Label

 

By Marie Iannotti

You want to make sure your plants are getting the nutrition they need to do you proud, but there are so many choices when it comes to selecting fertilizer. How do you know what is really in the bag? There are certain rules that all fertilizer makers must follow when they label their products and understanding these rules can make comparing fertilizers much easier.

Difficulty: Average

Time Required: 10 Minutes

Here's How:

1. Major Ingredients: Most commercial fertilizers have 3 numbers on the front label, separated by dashes. For example: 5-10-5. This is the fertilizer analysis or percentage by weight of the 3 major nutrients plants need: nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, in that order. These are abbreviated as N-P-K.

   So if you purchased a 10 pound bag of fertilizer labeled 5-10-5, it would contain 5% nitrogen, 10% phosphorus and 5% potassium. The remaining 80% could be comprised of other nutrients and filler.

2. 1st Number = Nitrogen: The first number gives the concentration of nitrogen in the product. Nitrogen encourages foliage growth, among other benefits. A 5-10-5 fertilizer would contain 5% nitrogen by weight. So for every pound of fertilizer applied there is really only .05 pounds of nitrogen. (The 10 pound bag mentioned above would contain .5 lb. nitrogen.)
3. 2nd Number = Phosphorous: The middle number refers to the concentration of phosphorous. Phosphorous contributes to many fundamental plant processes such as rooting and setting flower buds. A 5-10-5 fertilizer would contain 10% phosphorous by weight or .1 pounds of phosphorous. (The 10 pound bag mentioned above would contain 1 lb. of phosphorus.)
4. 3rd Number = Potassium: The final number states the concentration of potassium. Potassium contributes to the overall health and vigor of plants. Again, a 5-10-5 fertilizer would contain 5% potassium by weight or .05 pounds of potassium. (The 10 pound bag mentioned above would contain .5 lb. potassium.)
5. Complete Fertilizers: Fertilizers that contain all three major nutrients are considered complete fertilizers. There are specialized fertilizers which are called incomplete because they lack one or more major nutrients such as a fertilizer labeled 0-20-20.
6. Fertilizer Ratio (An easier comparison): An easier way to compare the numbers is to break them down to the fertilizer ratio or the amounts of the 3 major nutrients in relation to each other. A 5-10-5 fertilizer has a ratio of 1-2-1. This becomes important when looking for a fertilizer for a specific need. A 1-2-1 ratio is often recommended for vegetables, which need plenty of phosphorous to set fruit. 1-2-1 could be 5-10-5, 10-20-10 or any similar extrapolation.
7. Other Ingredients: Any additional ingredients will be listed on the side label. This may include other nutrients like calcium, magnesium, iron, micronutrients and even the percentage of organic matter.
8. Organic fertilizers: Organic fertilizers must specify which nutrient(s) is organic and it must be identified as either synthetic and/or natural, by percentage. For example: 20% of Nitrogen organic (6% synthetic, 14% organic). When something is labeled "organic", it simply means it contains carbon atoms. However we have come to expect that organic fertilizer, like organic food, comes from natural processes and contains nothing synthetic. That tends to be the case, especially as consumers become more educated, but be sure to read the label before you make a purchase.

Tips:

1. Having a soil test done before you start adding amendments will tell you what you actually need. If your soil pH is too high or too low, your plants will not be able to access some nutrients, even if they are present in the soil.
2. There is no one size fits all fertilizer. Fertilizer choice depends on the type of plant being grown and the soil it is being grown in.
3. Always follow the label instructions when using any registered garden product. Just because a little is good, it doesn't follow that a lot is better.
4. You can use less of fertilizers with high analysis numbers than with lower numbers. Five pounds of 10-20-10 would give you the same nutrient value as 10 pounds of 5-10-5.
5. Organic fertilizers made from natural ingredients often have lower concentrations of the three major nutrients, so you will need to use larger amounts. However, they do contain many other nutrients that feed both the plant and the soil. If you are using a synthetic fertilizer, you should supplement with some type of organic matter such as compost or manure, to maintain soil health.

How to Start a New Garden

 

By Marie Iannotti

 

Start Small

A Small, Personal Space.

Photo: © Marie Iannotti

You may have visions of drifts of color, wild flower prairies or bushels of tomatoes, but get your feet wet first, with some gardening basics. For flower gardens, choose a site close to the door or with a good view from a favorite window. Place your garden where you'll see and enjoy it often. This will also motivate you to garden more.

The front lawn shown here is small, but the homeowners still found an attractive, sunny spot to add some color and curb appeal. No matter how busy they are, they can enjoy their garden everytime they pull into their driveway or look out their front window.

 

Planning and Starting a Vegetable Garden

 

How to Plant Your First Vegetable Garden or Make One Better.

By Marie Iannotti

If you've never vegetable gardened before, you are in for a treat on many levels. Fortunately, growing vegetables is pretty easy and the gardening basics of flowers still apply. People have been doing it forever. Growing great tasting vegetables and staying ahead of problems does take a little knowledge and effort, but the following lessons will get you comfortably up and running in no time. The rest you'll learn as you go, which is the real thrill of gardening; overcoming unexpected obstacles and ending the season with a hearty harvest. You literally get to eat the fruits of your labor. I warn you, it's addictive.

1. Where Should You Put Your Vegetable Garden?

You want to make your vegetables happy. Stressed plants won’t give you bushels of great tasting vegetables. Most vegetables enjoy the same growing conditions, so making them happy isn’t a huge challenge. But if your vegetable garden isn’t convenient, it’s going to be neglected. Here's what to consider as you decide where to put your vegetable garden and how much effort you are willing to put into it.

Planning a Vegetable Garden - What Do Vegetables Need?

2. What to Grow In Your Vegetable Garden?

This is the fun part of planning a vegetable garden. It’s also deceptively difficult because our eyes are much bigger than our gardens. Everything sounds so luscious that it’s very tempting to try and squeeze in more than we should. I may never convince you not to try 18 varieties of tomatoes this season, but here are some suggestions for deciding what vegetables will have a place in your vegetable garden.

How to Decide What to Grow.

3. Start from Seed or Buy Plants?

There are some practical considerations here. A lot of gardeners will start all their plants from seed just to have the greater variety seeds provide over seedlings. But even if the idea of spending your winter pampering tiny plants in the basement is disagreeable to you, there are still vegetables that grow best if planted from seed. Don’t panic. These can be direct seeded in your garden. Still, you'll need to know which vegetables you can buy as plants and which you’ll need to pick up as seeds.

Seed or Seedling?

4. Vegetable Garden Design

Aesthetics take a back seat in vegetable gardens. Your first concern should be placing the vegetables in their optimal growing conditions. You’ll also need to consider room for paths and space for working. But that doesn’t mean it can’t look great. Here are some tips for layout out your vegetable garden and some vegetable garden photos for inspiration.

Designing and Laying Out a Vegetable Garden

5. Growing More Vegetables in a Small Space

You don’t usually plant your vegetable garden all at once. Some vegetables will fade when the weather heats up and others can be popped into the opened space. Other vegetables only produce for a limited time and can be sown in staggered plantings to extend the harvest. There are several easy ways to make the most of your vegetable garden space.

Tips for Getting More from the Same Space

6. Container Vegetable Gardening

Almost any vegetable can be grown in containers. In fact, container vegetable gardening has certain advantages. First, you can control the soil and drainage. It’s a lot easier to have great soil when you’re pouring it into a pot and not breaking your back tilling in amendments. You can place your vegetable container gardens where they’ll get the most sunlight or even move them around to follow the sun. And raising your vegetables off the ground a few feet makes them harder for pests to reach. Of course, they’ll need more water and some of the larger vegetables won’t be happy cramped into a pot. Here’s a list of tips and suggested varieties to turn your patio into a vegetable patch.

Growing Vegetables in Containers

7. Tending Your Vegetable Garden

Now we’re ready to tackle more practical matters. A vegetable garden requires regular maintenance. Vegetables won’t wait until it’s convenient for you to water them, stake them or harvest them. Some tasks, like staking and mulching, can be done early in the season. Others, like watering, will be ongoing. The last thing you want to do is go through all this work and then see your vegetables going to waste.

Keeping Your Vegetables Growing

8. Pest Control

You knew it was coming. Pest control is a vital part of vegetable gardening. The last thing you want to do is start spraying all kinds of concoctions on your food. The trick is to stay on top of the situation and take the appropriate steps when necessary. This is what we call Integrated Pest Management or IPM.

Integrated pest management (IPM)

9. Harvesting and Preserving

Finally. To savor the best, we need to know when to pick at peak. Some vegetables tell you, like the way a cantaloupe will slip off the vine. Others take a bit of finesse.

Preserving Techniques

It’s possible to grow only what you intend to eat fresh or give away, but it seldom happens that way. Besides, there are few winter treats as enjoyable as a pie made from your frozen blueberries or a jar of your own crushed tomatoes.

When to Pick Your Vegetables

10. Vegetables A-Z

By now you must be raring to go. The only thing left to do is study up on what your vegetables want, so you can be sure to give it to them.

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Vegetables A-Z